After so many guided day trips in Peru, I was more than ready to explore at my own pace. So in Paracas, I rented a bike and spent a day exploring the Paracas National Reserve. This is a protected piece of land and I loved the otherworldly feeling of the place. And getting to bike and explore at my own pace was just an added bonus.
So, if you’re looking for a DIY trip from Paracas, don’t overlook renting a bike and cycling the Paracas National Reserve.
Cycling the Paracas National Reserve
This is based on my own trip to Paracas National Reserve. I rented a bike and explored the park solo. This is not the only way to visit though. You can join a group tour, but if you still want the ability to go at your own pace but don’t want the physical exertion of biking, you can rent a scooter. Most shops that rent bikes will also rent scooters for the day.
Renting a Bike
I recommend getting an early start, especially if you are biking. While the day I visited turned out to be cloudy for most of the day, if the sun comes out, the sun is strong. Try to get an early start so you can avoid biking in the heat of the day. There is no shade anywhere on this bike route.
Because I recommend getting an early start, I actually recommend arranging your bike rental the day before. If you arrange the rental the day before, you can arrange to pick up the bike at 7:00 am and start off while it’s still cool.
I rented with AM Viajes Travel Agency and had an overall good experience, though my bike pick up wasn’t great. I had said I would be back between 7:00 and 7:15 the next morning to pick up the bike and they assured me it was no problem. Well, they ran into some issues the next morning so I didn’t actually get started until 7:30. Still, I’d recommend them. The bike was good (though it could have used some better shocks) and I was happy with it.
When you rent your bike, also make sure to get a helmet. From what I’ve read, you won’t be allowed to enter the Paracas National Reserve without one.
Now that you have your bike, it’s time to start pedaling toward the Paracas National Reserve.
Paracas Town to the Paracas National Reserve Entrance
It’s time to start pedaling. From the town of Paracas, it’s about 2.5 miles to the entrance to the Paracas National Reserve. The good news is that it’s a mostly flat, pretty smooth section of road. Enjoy it while it lasts.
Here’s where you’ll get off your bike and pay your entrance fee. When I visited, the sign said 17 soles for foreign visitors, but I was only charged 11 soles. I’m not quite sure why this was, but I wasn’t going to complain.
As a note, I had read online that some people had avoided the fee altogether by arriving early in the morning. I arrived at about 7:45 am and there was already someone at the front office waiting to take payments. It’s not a massive fee so just be prepared to pay it no matter what time you arrive.
The Tourist Loop
From the entrance, you’re going to make a giant loop through the Paracas National Reserve. Since it’s a loop, you can go in whichever direction you’d like. That said, I’d recommend going clockwise. That is, I’d recommend taking the road to the left shortly after the entrance and heading toward Playa Supay and La Catedral. This is what I did, after reading the advice of others online, and it’s what I’d recommend to other travelers.
Why? Because I think it’s going to be slightly easier. The road to Playa Supay is long and incredibly bumpy, but I think this sets you up for success because I think the route is generally easier. There will be hills along the way, but I felt like I descended more hills than I climbed. While some of the uphills were challenging, I’d much rather have those uphills than some of the other uphills in the other direction.
In the end it’s your decision, but I do think it’s better to go clockwise, so that’s how this post is laid out.
Playa Supay
It’s nearly 6 miles from the entrance to the first stop at Playa Supay. There is one hill, but hopefully it’s early enough in the day that you can power through it without too much issue. Once at the top, it’s immediately downhill again.
In my opinion, though, what makes this road challenging isn’t the hills or the length, but the road itself. It is so bumpy and in desperate need of a repaving. It’s totally possible to bike, but don’t be surprised if you find yourself questioning why you’re putting yourself through this. I promise the views later will be worth it. And while a lot of the road through the reserve is like this, I found this section to be the worst. It’s long and can feel never-ending.
But you’ll eventually reach Playa Supay. Get off your bike and enjoy the view.
La Catedral
It’s a very short ride from Playa Supay to La Catedral viewpoint. This is one of the most famous stops in the Paracas National Reserve. Unfortunately, I was here on a cloudy day, so my views weren’t the best, but on a day with clear weather, I’d bet this would be spectacular.
The other piece of good news is that if you’ve taken my advice and gotten an early start, you may have the view all to yourself. I left town at about 7:30 and I had both Playa Supay and La Catedral entirely to myself. In fact, most of the views today were either completely mine or I had to share with one other early bird. That was lovely.
Playa Yumaque
This next section of road is one of my favorites, but unfortunately it goes incredibly fast. From La Catedral to Playa Yumaque, it’s almost entirely downhill. No pedaling!
It’s about two miles and it’s all completely downhill. Once I started, I just had to steer and occasionally hit the brakes to control my speed. It was a blast and I was reminded of Death Road in Bolivia (where I basically cruised on downhill stretched for 30 miles of mountain road).
I stopped twice. First at a random spot on the side of the road for a photo and then at the main Playa Yumaque parking area.
Mirador Istmo
Keep biking another two miles until you reach a series of viewpoints. All are for Mirador Istmo and it’s your choice which viewpoint you visit. I chose viewpoint #1 because it was the least amount of effort, but if you’re interesting in biking up a hill, there’s another viewpoint that I’m almost certain will give a better view.
By this point in the morning, there was a tour of dune buggies coming through. They were heading the same direction as I was and they finally caught up with me. They went to the upper viewpoint and I made sure to let them leave before continuing on toward Playa Roja.
Playa Roja
It’s another mile completely downhill until you reach Playa Roja. This beach gets its name from the red sand lining the shores. Though there were barricades up when I visited that prevented me from actually stepping foot on the beach, it was still a great stop.
From here, you have two more stops left and it’s up to you how you plan your day. There’s Lagunillas which is home to the only restaurants at Paracas National Reserve (though there are snack stands at several of the beaches) and Playa La Mina, which is the most famous beach at Paracas National Reserve.
I chose to go to Playa La Mina first and then stop at Lagunillas on the way back. I don’t know if it truly makes a difference unless you are planning to eat lunch in Paracas National Reserve. I made better time than I thought and it was a bit too early for lunch. I decided to skip lunch in the reserve and opted to save a few soles by eating in town. I have no regrets about that, but had I been a bit later, I probably would have opted to eat here.
Lagunillas
It’s about another mile to Lagunillas, but it’s mostly flat. Note that there is the main road which makes a much wider loop of the area, but there’s also a path along the beach. It’s not paved, so you’ll be biking on packed sand, but it does save at least a half mile of biking. Since you’ll bike about 25 miles today, I’m all for saving whatever miles you can.
At Lagunillas, there’s a few restaurants like I mentioned, but there’s also a great overlook that you can walk out to.
Playa La Mina
Playa La Mina is the most famous beach at Paracas National Reserve, but if I’m honest, I biked right past it. Not even a quarter mile further down the road is Playa Rapson. There were fewer people there on my visit, so that’s where I chose to take my extended break. Either way, I think you’ll have a nice view at either beach.
It’s nearly 1.5 miles from Lagunillas to Playa La Mina and Playa Rapson. But there’s an important thing to note and that is there’s a hill. Not just a small hill, but a hill that has 200 feet of elevation gain. I’ll be honest and admit that I walked my bike up the hill, not having the energy to pedal my bike up it.
The good news is that from the top of the hill, it’s a fun ride down. The bad news is the hill is right in the middle of the road so you have to go up that hill both on your way to Playa La Mina and on your way back from Playa La Mina.
Playa La Mina to Paracas National Reserve Entrance
From Playa La Mina, it’s nearly 10 miles back to Paracas. You’ll pass by Lagunillas but then you’ll want to take the road to the left (the road to the right takes you back on the tourist loop toward Playa Roja). It’s a slow, steady pedal all the way back to the main entrance of Paracas National Reserve.
Note that there is the main road, but there’s also a side road that exists for bikes, dune buggies, and scooters. I’m not going to say that either road is in good shape, but it was nice to have my own dedicated area to bike since the reserve was slowly getting more visitors.
Along the way, you’ll pass by the museum and visitor center. If you’re interested in learning more about Paracas National Reserve, pull in to get some more information.
Otherwise, just keep pedaling.
Paracas National Reserve Entrance to Paracas
Now it’s just 2.5 miles back to town and you’ll be on actual smooth pavement again. It feels luxurious! The only thing to watch out for is other vehicles. Unlike other parts of the world, cars and trucks don’t move over much for bicycles, so it’s on you to move out of the way. This is annoying because the shoulder is more of that bumpy, uneven road that you just got off of. But since the alternative is being hit my a car, I guess I’ll put up with it.
Return your bike and find some lunch (if you didn’t eat at Lagunillas). You’ve earned a relaxing afternoon.
Total Biking Stats for Paracas National Reserve
I tracked the ride on my watch. Here’s what I logged.
Distance: 25 miles
Elevation Gain: 1,358 feet
Total Biking Time: 3 hours 45 minutes
Total Time: 5 hours 10 minutes (this includes all my stops at the viewpoints and beaches)
How Much Does It Cost to Cycle Paracas National Reserve?
There are two costs associated with cycling the Paracas National Reserve.
The first is the cost of your bike rental. You can expect to spend 35 to 50 soles for a full day bike rental.
The second cost is the entrance fee for Paracas National Reserve. At the time of writing, this is 17 soles for international travelers (though I was only charged 11 soles when I entered).
So, budget 52 to 67 soles for the entire day.
Other Options for Exploring the Paracas National Reserve
If bike more than 25 miles (40 kilometers) in one day sounds like too much, there are other options to explore Paracas National Reserve. The first is to rent a scooter. Many shops that rent bikes will also rent scooters.
The other option is to join a tour to Paracas National Reserve. Any tour agency in town will help you arrange a tour. These tours range from vans to dune buggies.
More in Paracas, Peru
If you’re staying in Paracas, the two big activities are exploring the Paracas National Reserve and visiting Las Ballestas Islands. These islands are sometimes referred to as the “poor man’s Galapagos” and on a tour you’ll get a chance to spot penguins, sea lions, and even more.
Final Thoughts
It can be an exhausting day cycling Paracas National Reserve, but it’s a fun and rewarding day. It was my favorite day that I spent in Paracas and would highly recommend it to anyone who is able.
