I Visited the Loire Valley Without a Car – Here’s How

When I first started planning my trip to France’s Loire Valley, nearly every piece of information said that you must rent a car in the Loire Valley. I was traveling solo and renting a car would be expensive, so I wanted to look into other options. It was incredibly frustrating to find that everyone seemed to actively discourage exploring by public transportation.

I ignored the advice of other travelers and spent two days exploring the chateaux of the Loire Valley by train and had a fabulous time. So, if you’re hesitant about renting a car in the Loire Valley, fear not. You still have options, regardless of what other travelers will lead you to believe.

Here is all of the information I wish I had had when I was planning my trip to the Loire Valley.

Should You Rent a Car in the Loire Valley?

While this post is intended as a guide for how to explore the Loire Valley without a car, I want to take a moment to talk about exploring with a car. A car will give you much more freedom. It is possible to reach several chateaux by public transportation, but train schedules can be inconvenient and some chateaux are just not accessible without a car. These are the two big reasons people discourage traveling via public transportation.

So what’s my advice? If you’re traveling in a group, a car will actually be a better and cheaper option. The more people you have to split the cost of the car, the cheaper it will be and it will likely end up being cheaper than traveling by train.

Keep in mind that when renting a car in France, the default is a manual transmission. If you never learned how to drive a manual transmission (like me!), expect the price of the rental car to nearly double. Beyond the cost of the rental car, you’ll also have the cost of gas (which is significantly higher than gas prices in North America), the cost of any tolls, and insurance.

If you’re traveling solo (or even as a group of two), traveling by train is going to be more affordable. I spent 48 euros on train tickets for my two days exploring the Loire Valley. That’s cheaper than a manual transmission rental car for one day in the Loire Valley (and that’s before gas and tolls).

The downside is that train schedules weren’t always ideal. There were some chateaux that I would have loved to visit, but just had to skip because I didn’t have a way to get there without a private vehicle.

So, I think traveling the Loire Valley really depends on your specific situation. If you’re traveling with a small group, rent a car. If you’re traveling solo (or even as a couple), you can visit the Loire Valley by train.

How to Visit the Loire Valley Without a Car

So you’ve decided to travel the Loire Valley by public transportation. Here’s everything you need to know.

Where to Stay in the Loire Valley Without a Car

There’s three cities that I think would make good bases for exploring the Loire Valley without a car. They are Tours, Amboise, and Blois and it’s up to you which city you use as a base.

Tours is the biggest of the three cities and is the most connected. You can reach Tours from several daily trains and buses from Paris. Tours is the most popular option for those traveling the Loire Valley by train.

Amboise is a twenty minute train from Tours. You can either take the TGV train from Paris Montparnesse to Tours (which takes one hour) and then another train from Tours to Amboise (which takes about 20 minutes), or take the slower train from Paris Austerliz directly to Amboise (which takes one hour and 45 minutes).

Blois is a forty minute train from Tours. You can either take the TGV train from Paris Montparnesse to Tours and then another train from Tours to Blois, or take the slower train from Paris Austerliz directly to Blois (which takes one hour and 30 minutes).

I stayed in Tours because it was the most connected city and it also had more budget accommodations. For most people traveling by the Loire Valley by train, I’d recommend staying in either Tours or Blois. Tours has the most connections, but some of the bigger chateaux (like Chambord and Cheverny) are more accessible from Blois.

When to Visit the Loire Valley If You Don’t Have a Car

I feel like this is a question that isn’t really considered, or is almost an after thought. However, if you’re traveling the Loire Valley without a car, I think it’s even more important to consider the season.

Low season (November through March) means lower prices and fewer tourists, but there’s also limited services. In peak season (July and August), affordable shuttle buses help connect tourists to the top chateaux. In shoulder season (April through June, September and October), these shuttle services run sporadically.

I traveled in March and while I made it work, I did have to skip one chateau that I really wanted to see (Chateau Chambord). If I were to do it again, I’d try to line up my schedule to at least go in shoulder season and try to time it to when the shuttle buses are running, just so I could get to Chateau hampbord.

Which Chateaux Should You Visit If You Don’t Have a Car

The Loire Valley is littered with chateaux, but since you’re limited by what is accessible by bus and train, your list of potential chateaux to visit shrinks. Here’s the Loire Valley chateaux that I found to be the most accessible by public transportation.

For more information on any of these chateaux, check out my guide to the Best Chateaux in the Loire Valley.

Chateau Royal d’Amboise

Nearest Train Station: Amboise

Distance from Train Station to Chateau: 20 minute walk

My thoughts: This is one of the easiest chateaux to visit without a car. It is not my favorite chateaux in the Loire Valley, but it is convenient. Trains pass through several times throughout the day making it easy to visit. Also remember, Amboise is one of the the towns that I’d recommend you stay in if you don’t have a car in the Loire Valley.

Chateau d’Azay-le-Rideau

Nearest Station: Azay-le-Rideau

Distance from Train Station to Chateau: 25 minute walk

My thoughts: I haven’t personally visited this chateaux, but it was a chateaux that I considered. Had I had more time in the Loire Valley, I would have included a visit just because it’s on a train line that gets frequent service.

Chateau Bouregard

Nearest Station: Blois – Chambord. From here, you can take a shuttle bus that connects Gare de Blois – Chambord to Chateau Chambord, Chateau Cheverny, and Chateau Bouregard.

NOTE: This shuttle only runs seasonally and operates on a weird schedule. It runs daily in July and August, but runs more sporadically April to June and September to early November. If you are visiting from mid November to March, this shuttle does not run and the chateau is not accessible by public transportation.

My thoughts: This is another chateau that’s on my list for a future visit. It is not on a main train line and that makes things a bit more difficult to plan. However, if you’re visiting during peak season when the shuttles are running and are making a base in Blois, I think this is definitely a chateau that you should consider visiting.

Chateau de Blois

Nearest Station: Blois – Chambord

Distance from Train Station to Chateau: 10 minutes

My thoughts: This chateau was an unexpected delight. I picked this chateau because it was easy to visit by train and it was one of my favorites in the Loire Valley (behind Chenonceau).

In my opinion, one of the best parts about visiting Chateau de Blois is the fact that it’s in a town. Several of these chateaux are situated by themselves, but with Chateau de Blois, you can tour the chateau and still have some time to wander the charming town before catching a train to your next destination.

Chateau du Clos Luce

Nearest Station: Amboise

Distance from Train Station to Chateau: 25 minute walk

My thoughts: I ran out of time to visit this chateau. Both Chateau du Clos Luce and Chateau Royal d’Amboise are located in the town of Amboise. Based on transportation schedules and my own sightseeing, I had to cut this.

If you want to visit both chateaux in Amboise, I’d set aside a full day for Amboise.

Chateau Chambord

Nearest Station: Blois – Chambord. From here, you can take a shuttle bus that connects Gare de Blois – Chambord to Chateau Chambord, Chateau Cheverny, and Chateau Bouregard.

NOTE: This shuttle only runs seasonally and operates on a weird schedule. It runs daily in July and August, but runs more sporadically April to June and September to early November. If you are visiting from mid November to March, this shuttle does not run and the chateau is not accessible by public transportation.

My thoughts: This chateau was so high on my list, but I just couldn’t make the logistics to work out. When I visited, the shuttle was not running and that effectively meant that I could not visit any of the chateaux on this shuttle line. I’m still sad about it, but I will definitely be back to the Loire Valley one day to see it.

Chateau Chambord is often considered one of the best chateaux of the Loire Valley, so if you want to see it, but are traveling the Loire Valley by train, you may want to consider traveling during peak season to ensure that the shuttle is running.

Chateau Chaumont-sur-Loire

Nearest Station: Onzain-Chaumont-sur-Loire.

Distance from Train Station to Chateau: 30 minute walk.

My thoughts: This chateau has a fairy tale exterior, but it wasn’t my favorite chateau. This chateau felt more like a modern art gallery than a traditional chateau, but it’s another chateau that can be visited by train. The most important thing to note is that the walk from the chateau to the train station is long and very uneventful. It’s doable, but boring.

Chateau Chenonceau

Nearest Station: Chenonceaux

Distance from Train Station to Chateau: 3 minute walk. The train station is directly behind the main parking lot for the chateau.

My thoughts: I found Chateau Chenonceau to be the best castle to visit without a car. The train station is convenient and this is one of the most beautiful chateau in the region. That’s a huge win if you ask me.

Chateau Cheverney

Nearest Station: Blois – Chambord. From here, you can take a shuttle bus that connects Gare de Blois – Chambord to Chateau Chambord, Chateau Cheverny, and Chateau Bouregard.

NOTE: This shuttle only runs seasonally and operates on a weird schedule. It runs daily in July and August, but runs more sporadically April to June and September to early November. If you are visiting from mid November to March, this shuttle does not run and the chateau is not accessible by public transportation.

My thoughts: Like with Chateau Bouregard and Chateau Chambord, the shuttle was not running so I couldn’t visit this chateau even if I wanted to. If you’re traveling in peak season and the shuttle is running, it may be a good idea to base yourself in Blois for a day or two to visit all three of these chateaux by shuttle.

Chateau Chinon

Nearest Station: Chinon

Distance from Train Station to Chateau: 25 minutes

My thoughts: I didn’t get a chance to visit this chateaux and if I’m honest, it’s not a chateaux I had researched prior to my trip. However, when I checked into my hotel in Tours, the woman at the front desk went over some sightseeing with me and mentioned Chateau Chinon by train. When I researched it later, this is definitely one more chateau to consider if you’re traveling the Loire Valley by public transportation.

Chateau de Villandry

By Bus: This is only accessible seasonally (July and August), but a bus connects Tours to Chateau Villandry.

My thoughts: I’m interested in visiting this chateau because the gardens are supposed to be some of the best anywhere. However, I was not in the Loire Valley in July and August, so this was not an option for me.

My Picks for the Best Loire Valley Chateaux Without a Car

I traveled in March, so I was a bit more limited in which chateaux I could visit. Over two days, I visited Chateau Royal d’Amboise, Chateau Chenonceau, Chateau de Blois, and Chateau Chaumont-sur-Loire.

If I were to visit in peak season and be able to utilize a shuttle, I’d replace Chateau Chaumont-sur-Loire with Chateau Chambord.

I believe everyone traveling the Loire Valley by train should visit Cheatu Chenonceau. Then visiting the chateaux in Amboise or the chateaux near Blois.

Train Schedules in the Loire Valley

Once you’ve narrowed down the list of chateaux you’d like to visit, it’s time to start looking at train schedules.

The train schedules can be frustrating. Don’t be surprised if when you are reviewing the schedules, you reconsider renting a car. But take a deep breath, you will likely still be able to workout a great Loire Valley itinerary that does not involve a rental car.

When I visited in March, it seemed that the trains only to run at odd times and it made planning a bit more complicated. It all worked out in the end, but I feel like it did limit me somewhat. The itineraries I’m about to give are based on my own experience and the train timetables that are available at the time. Before committing to any of these itineraries, you should visit consult the timetables to verify that everything is still accurate.

For train schedules, visit the SNCF website.

Do You Need to Purchase Your Chateaux Tickets in Advance?

All chateaux have the option to purchase your ticket in advance. Since I traveled in March, which is considered low season, I only purchased one ticket (Chenonceau) in advance. For all three other chateaux (Amboise, Blois, and Chaumont-sur-Loire), I walked right up to the ticket office and purchased my tickets on the spot.

I probably would have been fine had I not purchased my ticket to Chenonceau in advance, but since it was my most anticipated chateau, I didn’t want to take any chances.

If you are traveling in peak season, it’s a good idea to book your tickets in advance. I think this is especially true if you’re using trains and have limited time in each location. Standing in line at the ticket office is going to take up precious time that you may not have.

Loire Valley Itinerary by Train – Two Options

Now that we’ve talked about the logistics of exploring the Loire Valley without a car, let’s talk about some potential itineraries.

Itinerary 1 – Amboise, Chenonceau, Blois, Chaumont-sur-Loire

This is my car free Loire Valley itinerary and what I recommend for anyone traveling in the off season when the shuttles from Blois are not running. This itinerary is based in Tours.

Note that the exact times for the trains may have changed, but the overall schedule should remain the same.

Day 1 – Amboise and Chenonceau

9:05 – 9:24 – Train from Tours to Amboise.

Explore Chateau Royal d’Amboise OR Chateau Clos Luce. It will be really tight if you try to visit both, but it could be possible. If you visit both, you will not have time to get some lunch. I explored Chateau Royal d’Amboise, wandered the town, and grabbed a crepe before getting on the next train.

1:39 – 2:35 – Train from Amboise to Chenonceaux. This includes a 19 minute connection in Saint-Pierre-des-Corps.

You’ll have just over two hours at Chenonceau, which I felt was enough time to explore the chateau and get a taste of the grounds without feeling rushed. There are loads of walking trails through the grounds of this chateau, but you won’t have time to do them in depth.

4:52 – 5:23 – Train from Chenonceaux to Tours

Day 2 – Blois and Chaumont-sur-Loire

9:05 – 9:47 – Train from Tours to Blois

You’ll have enough time to tour the chateau, wander the town, and grab a quick lunch before getting back on the train to your next destination. I wish I had had more time here, but this was the only way to make trains work and not end up sitting bored for hours.

1:19 – 1:27 – Train from Blois to Chaumont-sur-Loire

Four hours is a lot of time in Chaumont-sur-Loire, but one hour of that time will be spent walking to and from the train station. That leaves you with three hours to explore the chateau, which I thought was more than you needed.

If you love modern art installations, or your visit coincides with the Festival Gardens, you will likely be grateful for the extra time. This was the one chateau where I felt like I had too much time. But I had my journal, so I got caught up on journaling with a nice view of the chateau.

5:27 – 6:00 – Train from Chaumont-sur-Loire to Tours

A note on meals: For your lunches, you’ll want to try to make them quick meals. Anyone who’s been to France knows that French people like to take their time so keep an eye on the clock when you’re eating. Both days, I found creperies that allowed me to get a good, quick meal.

Itinerary 2 – Amboise, Chenonceau, Blois, Chambord/Cheverny

This was my ideal itinerary, but I did not here in peak season when the shuttle between Blois and Chambord was running. I once again have this as an itinerary that is based in Tours, but it could be modified to be based in Blois.

Day 1 – Amboise and Chenonceau

This is the same schedule as Day 1 of Itinerary 1.

9:05 – 9:24 – Train from Tours to Amboise
1:39 – 2:35 – Train from Amboise to Chenonceaux. This includes a 19 minute connection in Saint-Pierre-des-Corps
4:52 – 5:23 – Train from Chenonceaux to Tours

Day 2 – Blois and Chambord and/or Cheverny

9:05 – 9:47 – Train from Tours to Blois

From here, you’ll need to review the bus schedule for your particular day since the bus schedule may based on the day and season. If the shuttle is running, you should have enough time to explore Blois in the morning. Then around 12:00, take the shuttle to Chambord. If you have time, you could even squeeze in Cheverny before returning to Blois to catch your train back to Tours.

5:15 – 6:00 – Train from Blois to Tours

Guided Tours of the Loire Valley

If you don’t want to rent a car in the Loire Valley, but also don’t want to travel independently by train, you have one other option. Several companies run tours of the Loire Valley. From my research, they provide transportation between the chateaux, but let you explore the chateaux independently.

Acco-Dipso Tours – For departures from Tours and Amboise

EcoShuttle41 – For departures from Blois

These tour companies require a minimum number of people to sign up for a tour before they will operate the tour. Additionally, each tour company offers numerous options covering different chateau, but it is my understanding that they will only operate one tour per day. The tour that is offered is decided by the first group to make a reservation.

As a solo traveler, this can be frustrating because you need to hope that someone else wants to do the same tour as you on the same day that you’ll be traveling.

My Experience With Tour Companies

I really wanted to visit Chambord and was getting incredibly frustrated by all of the public transportation options (I was visiting in low season). I was still adamant about not renting a car, so I reached out to two Loire Valley tour companies.

Acco-Dipso tours was prompt with their response, but didn’t have any availability on the day I was visiting. A minimum of two people is needed and since I was a solo traveler, they weren’t offering any tours that day. They did email me again nearly two weeks later when they had an opening near my trip. This did not work in my schedule, but I appreciated that they followed up to try to help me.

EcoShuttle41 did not have availability either, but they were also not very prompt in their response. It was nearly three weeks between my initial inquiry and the response that said they did not have any availability.

Final Thoughts

Exploring the Loire Valley without a car is possible, despite what other sources of information may tell you. That said, it does require a lot of planning to make all of the schedules work for you.

Continue Your Adventure

Loire Valley: There are more chateaux in the Loire Valley than you could possibly visit. Learn all about the best chateaux of the region.

Paris: The capital of France is full of museums, good food, and so many things to do. I recommend starting with my five day itinerary, but if you don’t have quite that much time, check out my two day itinerary. And if you just have a layover, you may still be able to enjoy a bit of Paris.

France: Start planning your trip with my France Travel Guide. Learn how to travel the country with my guide to trains in France.

More Car Free Travel: The Loire Valley isn’t the only place I’ve traveled without a car. Check out my itineraries for Iceland without a car and Ireland without a car.