When I first started planning my trip to France’s Loire Valley, nearly every piece of information said that you had to rent a car in the Loire Valley. I was traveling solo and renting a car would be expensive, so I wanted to look into other options. It was incredibly frustrating to find that everyone seemed to actively discourage exploring by public transportation.
In the end, I ignored what everyone said and spent two days exploring the chateaux of the Loire Valley by train and had a fabulous time. So if you’re hesitant about renting a car in the Loire Valley, fear not. You still have options, regardless of what other blogs will lead you to believe.
Here is all of the information I wish I had had when I was planning my trip.
Why Should You Rent a Car?
While this post is intended as a guide for how to explore the Loire Valley without a car, I want to take a moment to talk about exploring with a car. A car will give you much more freedom. It is possible to reach several chateaux by public transportation, but train schedules can be inconvenient and some chateaux are just not accessible without a car. These are the two big reasons people discourage traveling via public transportation.
My advice: if you’re traveling in a group, a car will actually be a better and cheaper option. The more people you have to split the cost of the car, the cheaper it will be and it will likely end up being cheaper than traveling by train.
Keep in mind that when renting a car in France, the default is a manual transmission. If you never learned how to drive a manual transmission (like me!), expect the price of the rental car to nearly double. Beyond the cost of the rental car, you’ll also have the cost of gas (which is significantly higher than gas prices in North America), the cost of any tolls, and insurance.
Why Should You Travel by Public Transportation?
If you’re traveling solo (or even as a group of two), traveling by train is going to be more affordable. I spent 48 euros on train tickets for my two days exploring the Loire Valley. That’s cheaper than a manual transmission rental car for one day in the Loire Valley (and that’s before gas and tolls).
The downside is that train schedules weren’t always ideal. There were some chateaux that I would have loved to visit, but just had to skip because I didn’t have a way to get there without a private vehicle.
Where Should You Base Yourself?
There’s three cities that I think would make good bases for exploring the Loire Valley without a car: Tours, Amboise, and Blois.
Tours is the biggest of the three cities and is the most connected. You can reach Tours from several daily trains and buses from Paris.
Amboise is a twenty minute train from Tours. You can either take the TGV train from Paris Montparnesse to Tours (which takes one hour) and then another train from Tours to Amboise (which takes about 20 minutes), or take the slower train from Paris Austerliz directly to Amboise (which takes one hour and 45 minutes).
Blois is a forty minute train from Tours. You can either take the TGV train from Paris Montparnesse to Tours and then another train from Tours to Blois, or take the slower train from Paris Austerliz directly to Blois (which takes one hour and 30 minutes).
I stayed in Tours because it was the most connected city and it also had more budget accommodations. For most people traveling by the Loire Valley by train, I’d recommend staying in either Tours or Blois. Tours has the most connections, but some of the bigger chateaux (like Chambord and Cheverny) are more accessible from Blois.
When Should You Travel?
I feel like this is a question that isn’t really considered, or is almost an after thought. However, if you’re traveling the Loire Valley without a car, I think it’s even more important to consider the season.
Low season (November through March) means lower prices and fewer tourists, but there’s also limited services. In peak season (July and August), affordable shuttle buses help connect tourists to the top chateaux. In shoulder season (April through June, September and October), these shuttle services run sporadically.
I traveled in March and while I made it work, I did have to skip one chateau that I really wanted to see (Chambord). If I were to do it again, I’d try to line up my schedule to at least go in shoulder season and try to time it to when the shuttle buses are running.
Which Chateaux Should You Visit?
The Loire Valley is littered with chateaux, but since you’re limited by what is accessible by bus and train, your list of potential chateaux to visit shrinks. Here’s the chateaux that I found to be the most accessible by public transportation. If you want to learn more about what it’s like to visit some of these chateaux, check out my post about Chateaux Overload in the Loire Valley.
Chateau Royal d’Amboise
Nearest Station: Amboise
Distance from Train Station to Chateau: 20 minute walk
Chateau d’Azay-le-Rideau
Nearest Station: Azay-le-Rideau
Distance from Train Station to Chateau: 25 minute walk
Chateau Bouregard
Nearest Station: Blois – Chambord. From here, you can take a shuttle bus that connects Gare de Blois – Chambord to Chateau Chambord, Chateau Cheverny, and Chateau Bouregard.
NOTE: This shuttle only runs seasonally and operates on a weird schedule. It runs daily in July and August, but runs more sporadically April to June and September to early November. If you are visiting from mid November to March, this shuttle does not run and the chateau is not accessible by public transportation.
Chateau de Blois
Nearest Station: Blois – Chambord
Distance from Train Station to Chateau: 10 minutes
Chateau du Clos Luce
Nearest Station: Amboise
Distance from Train Station to Chateau: 25 minute walk
Chateau Chambord
Nearest Station: Blois – Chambord. From here, you can take a shuttle bus that connects Gare de Blois – Chambord to Chateau Chambord, Chateau Cheverny, and Chateau Bouregard.
NOTE: This shuttle only runs seasonally and operates on a weird schedule. It runs daily in July and August, but runs more sporadically April to June and September to early November. If you are visiting from mid November to March, this shuttle does not run and the chateau is not accessible by public transportation.
Chateau Chaumont-sur-Loire
Nearest Station: Onzain-Chaumont-sur-Loire.
Distance from Train Station to Chateau: 30 minute walk.
Chateau Chenonceau
Nearest Station: Chenonceaux
Distance from Train Station to Chateau: 3 minute walk. The train station is directly behind the main parking lot for the chateau. I found this to be the most convenient chateau to visit by train.
Chateau Cheverney
Nearest Station: Blois – Chambord. From here, you can take a shuttle bus that connects Gare de Blois – Chambord to Chateau Chambord, Chateau Cheverny, and Chateau Bouregard.
NOTE: This shuttle only runs seasonally and operates on a weird schedule. It runs daily in July and August, but runs more sporadically April to June and September to early November. If you are visiting from mid November to March, this shuttle does not run and the chateau is not accessible by public transportation.
Chateau Chinon
Nearest Station: Chinon
Distance from Train Station to Chateau: 25 minutes
Chateau de Villandry
By Bus: This is only accessible seasonally (July and August), but a bus connects Tours to Chateau Villandry.
How to Plan Your Trip?
It is always important to consider what time of year you will travel. If you are traveling without a car in the Loire Valley, I believe this is even more important. During peak season (July and August), you will have a lot more options, simply because of public transportation schedules. However, if you’re traveling in the low season (like I was!), your chateaux options get more limited. If there is any chateau you are adamant to see, try to figure out that chateau first and work around those train schedules.
A Note About Train Schedules
The train schedules can be frustrating. Don’t be surprised if when you are reviewing the schedules, you reconsider renting a car. But take a deep breath, you will likely still be able to workout a great Loire Valley itinerary that does not involve a rental car.
When I visited in March, it seemed that the trains only to run at odd times and it made planning a bit more complicated. It all worked out in the end, but I feel like it did limit me somewhat. The itineraries I’m about to give are based on my own experience and the train timetables that are available at the time. Before committing to any of these itineraries, you should visit consult the timetables to verify that everything is still accurate.
For train schedules, visit the SNCF website.
Reserving Tickets in Advance
All chateaux have the option to purchase your ticket in advance. Since I traveled in March, which is considered low season, I only purchased one ticket (Chenonceau) in advance. For all three other chateaux (Amboise, Blois, and Chaumont-sur-Loire), I walked right up to the ticket office. I probably would have been fine had I not purchased my ticket to Chenonceau in advance, but since it was my most anticipated chateau, I didn’t want to take any chances.
If you are traveling in peak season, it’s a good idea to book your tickets in advance. I think this is especially true if you’re using trains and have limited time in each location. Standing in line at the ticket office is going to take up precious time that you may not have.
Suggestions for Two Day Itineraries
Itinerary 1 – Amboise, Chenonceau, Blois, Chaumont-sur-Loire
This is my car free Loire Valley itinerary and what I recommend for anyone traveling in the off season when the shuttles from Blois are not running. This itinerary is based in Tours.
Note that the exact timing of the trains may change, but the overall schedule could remain the same.
Day 1 – Amboise and Chenonceau
9:05 – 9:24 – Train from Tours to Amboise
Explore Chateau Royal d’Amboise OR Chateau Clos Luce. It will be really tight if you try to do both, but it could be possible. If you do both, you will not have time to get some lunch. I explored Chateau Royal d’Amboise, wandered the town, and grabbed a crepe before getting on the next train.
1:39 – 2:35 – Train from Amboise to Chenonceaux. This includes a 19 minute connection in Saint-Pierre-des-Corps
You’ll have just over two hours at Chenonceau, which I felt was enough time to explore the chateau and get a taste of the grounds without feeling rushed. There are loads of walking trails on through the grounds of this chateau, but you won’t have time to do them in depth.
4:52 – 5:23 – Train from Chenonceaux to Tours
Day 2 – Blois and Chaumont-sur-Loire
9:05 – 9:47 – Train from Tours to Blois
You’ll have enough time to tour the chateau, wander the town, and grab a quick lunch before getting back on the train to your next destination. I wish I had had more time here, but this was the only way to make trains work and not end up sitting bored for hours.
1:19 – 1:27 – Train from Blois to Chaumont-sur-Loire
Four hours is a lot of time in Chaumont-sur-Loire, but one hour of that time will be spent walking to and from the train station. That leaves you with three hours to explore the chateau, which I thought was more than you needed. If you love modern art installations, or your visit coincides with the Festival Gardens, you will likely be grateful for the extra time. This was the one chateau where I felt like I had too much time. But I had my journal, so I got caught up on journaling with a nice view of the chateau.
5:27 – 6:00 – Train from Chaumont-sur-Loire to Tours
A note on meals: For your lunches, you’ll want to try to make them quick meals. Anyone who’s been to France knows that French people like to take their time so keep an eye on the clock when you’re eating. Both days, I found creperies that allowed me to get a good, quick meal.
Itinerary 2 – Amboise, Chenonceau, Blois, Chambord/Cheverny
This was my ideal itinerary, but I was not here in peak season when the shuttle between Blois and Chambord was running. I once again have this as an itinerary that is based in Tours, but it could be modified to be based in Blois.
Day 1 – Amboise and Chenonceau
This is the same schedule as Day 1 of Itinerary 1.
9:05 – 9:24 – Train from Tours to Amboise
1:39 – 2:35 – Train from Amboise to Chenonceaux. This includes a 19 minute connection in Saint-Pierre-des-Corps
4:52 – 5:23 – Train from Chenonceaux to Tours
Day 2 – Blois and Chambord and/or Cheverny
9:05 – 9:47 – Train from Tours to Blois
From here, you’ll need to review the bus schedule for your particular day since the bus schedule changes based on the day. If the shuttle is running, you should have enough time to explore Blois in the morning. Then around 12:00, take the shuttle to Chambord. If you have time, you could even squeeze in Cheverny before returning to Blois to catch your train back to Tours.
5:15 – 6:00 – Train from Blois to Tours
One Other Option
If you don’t want to rent a car in the Loire Valley, but also don’t want to travel independently by train, you have one other option. Several companies run tours of the Loire Valley. From my research, they provide transportation between the chateaux, but let you explore the chateaux independently.
Acco-Dipso Tours – For departures from Tours and Amboise
Tour Evasion – For departure from Tours and Amboise
EcoShuttle41 – For departures from Blois
These tour companies require a minimum number of people to sign up for a tour before they will operate the tour. Additionally, each tour company offers numerous options covering different chateau, but it is my understanding that they will only operate one tour per day. The tour that is offered is decided by the first group to make a reservation. As a solo traveler, this can be frustrating because you need to hope that someone else wants to do the same tour as you on the same day that you’ll be traveling.
My Experience With Tour Companies
I really wanted to visit Chambord and was getting incredibly frustrated by all of the public transportation options (I was visiting in low season). I was still adamant about not renting a car, so I reached out to two Loire Valley tour companies.
Acco-Dipso tours was prompt with their response, but didn’t have any availability on the day I was visiting. A minimum of two people is needed and since I was a solo traveler, they weren’t offering any tours that day. They did email me again nearly two weeks later when they had an opening near my trip (it was the day before I arrived the Loire Valley). This did not work in my schedule, but I appreciated that they followed up to try to help me.
EcoShuttle41 did not have availability either, but they were also not very prompt in their response. It was nearly three weeks between my initial inquiry and the response that said they did not have any availability.
Final Thoughts
Exploring the Loire Valley without a car is possible, despite what other sources of information may tell you. That said, it does require a lot of planning to make all of the schedules work for you.
Continue Your Adventure
Loire Valley: Learn which chateaux to visit (and which to skip!) in my guide to the Loire Valley.
Paris: Whether you have a layover, two days, or five days, there’s so much to see in France’s capital.
France Trains: If you’re traveling the Loire Valley without a car, you’ll likely be using trains. Here’s everything you need to know about trains in France.
France Travel Guide: For everything you need to know about planning your trip to France, check out my France Travel Guide.